Tuesday, 27 November 2012

British designer of year 2012

Mary Katrantzou

British Fashion Awards are being held tonight and the nominees for Designer of the year fall to Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Stella McArtney.

My winner is Mary Katrantzou ever since her debut collection in 2008 she has bought fashion to a 3dimensional structure with her use of silhouette and her use of digital print in creating a story in her garments. It is her mix of colour and print that combine in a theatratrical explosion of aesthetical charm.

She won emerging talent in Ready to wear 2011 so surely the next progression is winning Designer of the year, she has become a well recognisable name with her collaboration with Topshop and her style of print and hyper real colour is strikingly unique.


Tuesday, 13 November 2012

Margiela and H&M - Hits 15th Nov!!!

Surely H&M can do no better than its latest line of designer collaborations, Maison Martin Margiela is due to launch its collection in just two days time. Unlike other collaborations when specific items have been designed for the high street brand this time Margiela is offering a complete overview of the most representative items from Margiela archive in updated shapes and materials. The collaboration contains over 100 garments from male, female, accessories and shoes. I'm looking forward to seeing deconstructed style on a budget, as well as an excessively oversized silhouettes.

Shop at H&M online from Nov 15th.

Monday, 12 November 2012

Kohei Yoshiyuki – The Park, 1971-79

As part of the Liverpool Biennial the Open Eye Gallery plays host to photographer Kohei Yoshiyuki series ‘The Park’ which documents the busy nightlife in Tokyo parks in the 1970s. The images are shown in a darkened room where you are given a torch to view each photograph the effect this has is making the context of the pictures become more personal it is as you are a peeping tom looking on the different scenes. The images are explicit in showing different groups and couples engaging in sexual activity and as you are viewing in darkened room by torch it adds tension to the black and white images. They exhibition had a sinister feel which the context of the images show and was exasperated by the setting in which to view. You also feel aware of your role as the spectator because some images show people looking through bushes at people engaging in sexual activity and you in turn are doing the same at them in a voyeuristic examination of their privacy causing a blur in the role of spectator.


Friday, 9 November 2012

The history of publicizing fashion trends.

Fashion is about speed and accessibility, the documentation of the latest fashion is paramount as will only become a trend when the information is available to mass public and they can disseminate and encapsulate the fashion therefore making it the latest fashionable trend.  

The reporting on fashion can be traced back to 1770 when the first printed fashion plate was published in ‘The Lady’s’ magazine. The illustrations alongside printed descriptions of the fashion drawings helped accelerate trend to change seasonally, as the new trend was promoted people could copy the style, it was starting the growth in importance of material culture as more people wanted to wear the latest fashionable trend.

Example of fashion plate from 1880 published in ‘The Lady’s’ magazine titled ‘Paris Dress’- France was seen as dictators of fashionable wear, the puffed shoulders, tight waist and pronounced décolleté were latest trend. As well as the lifestyle indicated to in the fashion plate of elegance and upper class style people inspired towards which is symbolised by playing of the harp. 

The development of photography and fashion photography towards the end of first decade of twentieth century accelerated the access and information about fashion available to mass public, now there was an exact representation of the latest trend available for people to look upon instead of a drawing. Fashion trends were being showed in Vogue as early as 1914 by photographer Baron de Meyer he used backlighting and soft focus lens to capture the fleeting atmosphere and style of the clothing as shown on the models.
Example of Baron de Meyer in Vogue 1919 – The latest trend was of barrel line which was long tubular skirt with boyish bust of square line, was of time when Poiret inspired orientalism was seen in fashion.  In the image you can see how soft focus was used to create atmosphere of refined elegance.
Fashion photography took a backseat during the war years and after the Second World War France’s fashion industry was recovering after four years of Nazi occupation in which no documentation of fashion was circled out of France and with rationing still in place in Britain fashion was not seen in its opulence that was renowned for before the war.  
To help rebuild Paris fashion industry and show French latest fashion a touring exhibition named ‘Theatre de la Mode’ started in 1945 till 1946 in which visited London, Barcelona, Stockholm, Copenhagen and America. It consisted of precise miniature mannequins of copies of Spring/Summer collections of 1945, the mannequins were dressed in couture clothing designed by renowned designers such as Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Molyneux and Balmain as well as milliners, shoe and purse designers. The exhibition raised the portfolio and audience of the French designers and was a resourceful way to show the latest fashions without use of excess material which at the time was in short supply and would have been seen overly opulent as public was still recovering from war torn years.



Nowadays fashion is documented and spread so fast by the accessibility of live streaming from fashion shows, in 1976 ‘Video fashion news’ was created which was the first video version of fashion magazine in which front row seat access, backstage gossip all enabled the latest reporting of fashion trends to the mass public. Now fashion is consumed by public in such a high speed way that we don’t have to wait for the seasonal trends to be featured in magazines we have access immediately and designers are recognising this with their increase of their own online presence being seen.
Fashion is still about reporting the latest trend but now we the public can do the reporting.