Science inspired garments

 

Designer Brooke Roberts merged her previous history of working as radiographer with her fashion design and pattern cutting skill to create garments inspired by CT scans and Xrays, she progammed knitting machines to specific patterns to create the garments. I love the merge of science and fashion in her garments in creaing futuristic print. I also like how the garments are knitted it is the mix of knitting and science inspired inspired print which I think is merging old and new techniques. 

Eco Fashion

Oscar Wilde, ‘Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.’

The fashion cycle rate of consumption is adversely impacting on the environment in each of its production stages from the cultivation of raw fabric to shipment of finished garment. Eco Fashion formally not widely known by mass market is now becoming more accessible by the work of environmentally conscious designers who use, produce and/or promote sustainable and ethical products.  Gone are the connotations of free love, hemp and earth colourings replaced by the respect for people plus planet plus profit in equal measurements.

The timeline of eco fashion.

Eco fashion can be traced back to the 1950s when the social elite wore couture and others who couldn’t afford to buy would follow the trend by making their own clothes. There was a great emphasis on investment purchases of high quality, long lasting goods they were eco friendly without being aware by their slow rate of consumption.

The natural looks that emerged in the 1960s can be linked to the hippies there was a trend for the re-working of vintage clothing into new garments which embraced creativity and individuality therefore rejecting the dehumanising effects of mass production and consumerism.

The 80s and 90s was a time when truly the effects of mass produced goods became common knowledge in the form of sweatshops catching worldwide attention, which encouraged the public to become more aware of what they’re buying into. Katherine Hamnett was one of the leaders in eco fashion became well known by her 1989 ‘Clean up or die’ Autumn Winter collection in which she used organic cotton on slogan t-shirts. Moschino in 1989 used his reputability as a form of expression by models wearing slogan t-shirts such as ‘stop using our waters as a W.C’ on the runway.

The work of Martin Margiela in the 1990s was that of upside down dysfunctional beauty by his re-working of existing garments by first deconstructing them then reconstructing into new forms, for example jacket made from multiple silk scarves. His ecological approach became known for its avant-garde qualities his garments were viewed as works of art which don’t follow passing fashion trend but instead encourage investment on high quality goods.

The twenty first century saw the introduction of green as the new black as legendary fashion journalist Suzy Menkes said in 2006. The same year ‘Esthetica’ by the British Fashion Council was established to showcase cutting edge designer’s committed to working eco sustainably.

Esthetica S/S 2012 London Fashion Week, Henrietta Ludgate one of the designers was one of my favourites by her use of structured colourful designs. As well as Victim Fashion Street her use of reclaimed materials in reconstruction of garments is skilfully done by mix of print.

In proof that the notion of eco fashion had become well received by mass market came in 2007 when designer Anya Hindmarch released the bag with slogan ‘I’m not a plastic bag’ on and was snapped on arms of many a celebrity and in doing so became the bag of the moment with stocks selling out. Eco fashion is now seen as eco cool.

Now to the science that is needed to inform the continual progress of environmentally conscious garments is still in development some possible new techniques consist of biodegradable clothing which is growing clothes out of biomaterial the bacteri al-cellulose is spun and made into material fibre, literally means the possibility of growing a dress out of science beaker so no resources would be depleted.

Designers Andrew Sneider and Diffus designs have managed to incorporate energy production into garment process by creating a solar bikini and solar panelled hand bag retrospectively. They produce enough energy to charge mobile phone and can act as energy capacitors; we will be our very own walking energy producer.

Another concept to reduce energy usage is being researched into the production of a fabric that has a coating made from compound of titanium dioxide which acts as very own washing machine so reducing energy usage as well as water usage. This compound would have capability of breaking down dirt molecules while killing microbes by being activated by UV rays.

To reduce the amount of fabric waste a concept has been developed which utilises a loom attached to computer that weaves made to fit garment sections which can then be sewn together by hand, therefore no fabric waste so saving on raw material.

Ultimately all these innovations in fabric development are concepts at the moment and to promote eco fashion is down to the consumer as consumers drive fashion by their demands. The appeal of slow fashion which is less driven by current trends but dictated by style and high quality garments is the promotion of an ecologically friendly fashion movement.

Tattoos and the self fashioning of identity

Tattooing is a form of self expression in construction of a cultural embodied identity. Tattooing has always been a symbol of identity in that the tattoos of the wearer represent their cultural standing be it the stereotypical notions of prisoners tattoos as they are stripped of any form of identity by the wearing of uniform prison jump suit, so their tattoos show their cultural position and act as expression of identity that not allowed to express in form of clothing.

But what when tattoos surplus the mode of expression that clothing entails and takes its own expression of identity that no longer does a person who have a tattoo is immediately classified as member of deviant social group. Tattooing is now seen as art form and the actual tattooist as contemporary artist with the body as medium instead of traditional canvas. Tattoos now are no longer individual symbols of self identity but can work as a coherent piece of art work; it is a combination of owners identity mixed with tattooist’s vision that creates individual art work that becomes a talking point and representative of the owner.

The twenty first century is an image obsessed, over saturated society in which images are over consumed via media outlets. Brands have signifying identity traits which we as the public signify with certain brands and the related aspects of status and identity. Artist Dietrich Wegner highlights this with his use of babies covered in fake tattoos of corporate brand logos, it aims to show the world in which they will be brought up in. Therefore the want of people to distinguish themselves by forms of tattoos is growing in the removal of brand symbolism and the related taste values associated so tattoos act as own form of identity in the dejection of brand symbolism.

Ironically tattoos are now being accepted and encouraged by fashion industry once when models were not allowed to be in high end fashion shows with tattoos as it breaks the barrier of model as hanger for the clothing foremost. Now many models are booked for their individuality. Chanel and Betsey Jackson have both released collections of temporary tattoo motifs the role of the tattoo as symbol for deviant social class is reversed by high end fashion designers promoting tattoos as latest form of fashion and accepting them, will this mean that the original aim of tattoo as form of individualism identity will be taken over by the very commercial giants that it is trying to resist?

 

 

Day 4 London Fashion Week SS13 Reviews

David Koma

This season David incorporated his body hugging silhouettes with 1920s flair, waist band were dropped and use of block deco inspired colours such as bold green, tangerine, crisp white and blues incorporated in honeycomb print.

His body contoured dresses had new twist to them with outer layered sheer tunics, lateral folds interweaving in the fabric and peplum style fringing swishing at bottom of dress .

His collection I felt had concurrent theme of 1920s sport inspired luxe, tennis dresses with dropped waist line and flashes of bold colouring shadowed over his precise silhouette perfect for the summer of Wimbledon.

Louise Gray

I was excited for Gray collection as I just invested in her makeup at Topshop loving the bold coloured eye shadows and lipsticks the same can be said for her SS13 season bright neon colours clashed with so many different prints, newsprint, haphazard black marker pen doodles, polka dots and Aztec inspired zig zags.

Her layering of leggings, dresses and shirts all in one print or clashing coloured print was statement and took an extra blink of the eye. Her mirrored head pieces and mirrored polka dot returned the gaze of spectator onto themselves the whole collection had light hearted feel and more is definitely more here.

It had futuristic sport inspired luxury feel I thought, the metallic baseball jacket was one of my favourite items and bright socks over equally coloured brogues and one I can see being re-dashed on the high street next SS.

Burberry Prorsum

SS13 sees the revamped trade mark trench coat being worked in a varied display of bold, exotic colouring of fuchsias, purples, coppery lace and midnight lighted blues. It had twist of youth and fun injected into the trench.

Capes were another key aspect of collection, long avenger style outer cape and shoulder cape in different colours of whites and plastic coloured pinks over peplum corsets and tap shorts was look of glamour interlaced with wearable style.

The collection reminded true to its classicism routes of Burberry but was just lifted into the realms of fun, light hearted styling by combination of colours and use of metallic, plastic and lace all heralding a vibrant, exciting Burberry under Christopher Baileys wing.

Day 3 London Fashion Week, SS13 reviews

Marios Schwab

The collection had warrior-esque inspired feel I thought with flat lace up, knee high boots and also the combination of textures such as chain of pearls that detailed around dress was like an armour shield. Garments had frayed edges, netted layered skirts and detail guillotine style cuts in fabric.

Conversely statement dresses were baroque inspired with bejewelled nude figure hugging maxi dresses and jewelled nude cycling shorts layered under dress.

The collection for SS13 was lavish, opulent and strong by use of different textures all combining in reacting layers to one another giving the garments movement and three dimensional structured look.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

It had Stepford wife 1950s feel to the collection models with plastic doll like faces shining, blue eye shadow to the eyebrow, purple rinse hair and beehive grey wigs with rolls at front and tucked underneath at back of head. Beauty was made ugly, the new ugly fashion with hair nets and wide brimmed pointed glasses.

The accessories were heralding back to days when women were ladies lace and satin elbow length gloves, and hats not masculine bowler or flat caps but dainty boater hat style and sculpturally placed small brim hats. Not forgetting pearls the quintessential lady accessory they were large and long chain necklaces.

Some of my favourite looks were pyjama striped shirt dress, sharp off shoulder cut wraparound dress in soft coloured splattered print and the 50s swimsuits perfectly cut for the classic dream silhouette.

There was a nod to Westwood slogan print 90s days when back of t-shirt read ‘Climate Revolution’ which then materialised into intended message when Vivienne Westwood at end of show came out followed by two army clad slogan models, her dress unravelled to a large banner which was held by models with ‘Climate Revolution’ on and Westwood wore baroque inspired helmet highlighting the fights against climate control.

The extremes of the collection highlighted 50s repression, climate control and ugly as beauty.

Paul Smith

The collection had a formalist approach, linear lines, block colour and pattern print with contrasting colour alignment. Shirts were button up collared two tone affairs the top was either a block colour or print and bottom half plain white, they looked crisp with a subtle twist on the conventional tailored shirt. The two tone was also on loose fitting v neck dresses the colour reached triangular point on dress and white around. Quirky differences to the tailored look came with the blazer having contrasting coloured lapels of white and black, also contrasting coloured arms.

The use of colour came in pop art bursts with varying stages of red and yellow in geometric square print dress. Lower half of shirt sleeves were dip dyed, I liked how the white shirt became reconstructured for younger audience by simple colour play.

The collection has inspiration from the classicism of the white shirt and line detail, giving modern sharp lines a dash with bold colouring.

Mary Katrantzou

SS13-: Inspired by world history, global exploration and guilloche pattern play.

It was all about the print beautiful scenic snap shots of historic landmarks printed upon full flowing lampshade dresses. The mix of print, structured shape and ornate detailing made the garments appeal ethereal in their design and metallic shine added three dimensional movements.

Sleeves were varied wide brimmed lampshade cut offs, concave to the body and hiding within the dress. The use of colours was varied they were soft palette though no brash or bold colouring but subdued and carefully mixed.

The sculptured designs such as tube panelled dress seemed to protrude out at the top giving precise lines. Which was also seen on pleated maxi dress the lines were perpendicular to one another in minute detail, the dress appeared to glisten between the pleats.

I loved this collection it was ornate, modern, varied colours and the lines mixed with print were striking.

Day 2 London Fashion Week, SS 13 Reviews

Kinder Aggugini

SS13-: ‘I read ‘The old man and the sea’ by Hemmingway and I wanted to bring this idea to life. I used conversational prints as bias of collection, to echo the conversations that man has with sea and that women have with each other.’

The collection had a kooky and retro feel, it opened with sound of Frank Sinatra singing ‘Somewhere over the sea,’ and the sea reference was seen not just in colouring of blues but with navy style long blazer, octopus tentacles cascading down dresses and along sleeves as well as oversized Mac which had contrasting short sleeves that were constructed into side of Mac.

Dungaree style dresses, jumpsuits and skirts also appeared adding to the kooky feel with the contrast of paisley mixed with plaid and world map print. There was also an elegant red trouser dungaree ¾ in length and skirts with rouched paper bag waist line.
I feel that the collections use of print and colour had a fun, light hearted approach to next SS.

Jasper Conran

SS13 -: ‘Marfa meets Savile row.’

The neon flower lights, bare footed models, green catwalk and subdued folk music gave the collection a boho seventies feel. Denim low waisted jeans and hot pants with peace motifs such as doves, heart and peace logo were printed on jeans in a collage mix match. Cut out detail print shift dresses and patchwork paisley print skirt added relaxed summer vibe to the collection.

It wasn’t just floral though stripes and glitter sequins sparkled down the catwalk. Multi coloured hexagon collage on vest dress captured the eye along with sparkling striped vest dress. The sparkly dresses were over embellished, bright and shining.

The inspiration of Savile row was seen in the tailoring, wide leg trouser suits with sharply fitted blazer with wide lapels came in crisp white and black colouring.

I thought it was a standard presentation of SS13 it was referenced in the past instead of modern designs. Denim, sparkles and tailored suits nothing too inspirational in its presentation.

Todd Lynn

The inspiration I felt through the collection was the dark canopy of the jungle, colours of green, khaki, flashes of red and yellow all against soundtrack of bongo drums and chanting. The collection was aggressive in style, sharp angles, high neck collars and metal zip up high jackets. Garments were slashed at the back and around the midriff exposing the skins in layers, the slashed fabric contrasting and moving against the body when in movement.

In contrast matching golden A line pleated skirt and high neck combos breathed the light in through the mass of dark colouring. Architectural folding of fabric to focal point at waist line on dresses gave the dresses a rigid structure. The use of two tone colouring on cigarette style trousers from dark to lighter matched with monochrome jackets giving a edgy but sophisticated look.

John Rocha

Volume and layering they are the two aspects I took from his collection. Full body taffeta dresses were layered over ankle grazer cigarette pants. The layering was architectural in design with different fabric such as sheer, taffeta and silk layered between and over one another combining the colouring.  My favourite look was sheer polka dot jumpsuit over bralet and boy shorts but instead of dots was embroidered daisy’s it had fun, youthful look but still daring as sheer material.

Issa London

SS13-: ‘Inspired by Garden of Eden, Noahs ark, vibrant underwater corals, passion and seduction.’

Print, colour and detailing are all bold, vibrant use and range of colours giving tropical glow to the collection. The neck is exposed as main feature with halter neck dresses, opulent gold collared jewellery and knots as base of neck exposing shoulders and neck line. Maxi dresses with cut out backs and wrap around tie detail around waist focus the eye to waist line. Parrot and fauna motifs on the dresses enliven the dress to a tropical setting, as well as eastern influence with kaftans layered over trousers.

The collection is bright, mix matched and loud to the eye.