The fashion cycle rate of consumption is adversely impacting
on the environment in each of its production stages from the cultivation of raw
fabric to shipment of finished garment. Eco Fashion formally not widely known
by mass market is now becoming more accessible by the work of environmentally
conscious designers who use, produce and/or promote sustainable and ethical
products. Gone are the connotations of
free love, hemp and earth colourings replaced by the respect for people plus
planet plus profit in equal measurements.
The timeline of eco fashion.
Eco fashion can be traced back to the 1950s when the social
elite wore couture and others who couldn’t afford to buy would follow the trend
by making their own clothes. There was a great emphasis on investment purchases
of high quality, long lasting goods they were eco friendly without being aware
by their slow rate of consumption.
The natural looks that emerged in the 1960s can be linked to
the hippies there was a trend for the re-working of vintage clothing into new
garments which embraced creativity and individuality therefore rejecting the
dehumanising effects of mass production and consumerism.
The 80s and 90s was a time when truly the effects of mass
produced goods became common knowledge in the form of sweatshops catching worldwide
attention, which encouraged the public to become more aware of what they’re
buying into. Katherine Hamnett was one of the leaders in eco fashion became well
known by her 1989 ‘Clean up or die’ Autumn Winter collection in which she used
organic cotton on slogan t-shirts. Moschino in 1989 used his reputability as a form
of expression by models wearing slogan t-shirts such as ‘stop using our waters
as a W.C’ on the runway.
The work of Martin Margiela in the 1990s was that of upside
down dysfunctional beauty by his re-working of existing garments by first deconstructing
them then reconstructing into new forms, for example jacket made from multiple
silk scarves. His ecological approach became known for its avant-garde qualities
his garments were viewed as works of art which don’t follow passing fashion
trend but instead encourage investment on high quality goods.
The twenty first century saw the introduction of green as
the new black as legendary fashion journalist Suzy Menkes said in 2006. The
same year ‘Esthetica’ by the British Fashion Council was established to
showcase cutting edge designer’s committed to working eco sustainably.
Esthetica S/S 2012 London Fashion Week, Henrietta
Ludgate one of the designers was one of my favourites by her use of
structured colourful designs. As well as Victim Fashion Street her use of reclaimed
materials in reconstruction of garments is skilfully done by mix of print.
In proof that the notion of eco fashion had become well received
by mass market came in 2007 when designer Anya Hindmarch released the bag with
slogan ‘I’m not a plastic bag’ on and was snapped on arms of many a celebrity and
in doing so became the bag of the moment with stocks selling out. Eco fashion
is now seen as eco cool.
Now to the science that is needed to inform the continual progress
of environmentally conscious garments is still in development some possible new
techniques consist of biodegradable clothing which is growing clothes out of
biomaterial the bacteri al-cellulose is spun and made into material fibre,
literally means the possibility of growing a dress out of science beaker so no
resources would be depleted.
Designers Andrew Sneider and Diffus designs have managed to
incorporate energy production into garment process by creating a solar bikini
and solar panelled hand bag retrospectively. They produce enough energy to
charge mobile phone and can act as energy capacitors; we will be our very own
walking energy producer.
Another concept to reduce energy usage is being researched
into the production of a fabric that has a coating made from compound of
titanium dioxide which acts as very own washing machine so reducing energy
usage as well as water usage. This compound would have capability of breaking
down dirt molecules while killing microbes by being activated by UV rays. To reduce the amount of fabric waste a concept has been developed which utilises a loom attached to computer that weaves made to fit garment sections which can then be sewn together by hand, therefore no fabric waste so saving on raw material.
Ultimately all these innovations in fabric development are
concepts at the moment and to promote eco fashion is down to the consumer as
consumers drive fashion by their demands. The appeal of slow fashion which is
less driven by current trends but dictated by style and high quality garments
is the promotion of an ecologically friendly fashion movement.
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