V&A From Club to Catwalk

The V&A’s latest exhibition blockbuster is named ‘From Club to Catwalk’ it celebrates London fashion in the 1980s. The 80s isn’t the decade that is remised of fondly say compared to the 60s or more recently the 90s which has been an inspiration for many 2013 summer trends, people associate the 80s with power dressing, shoulder pads and the Fame kids so all in all not a style decade to be celebrated.

However what the V&A have done is have a concentrated delve into what was coming out of the underground London club scene. When the mass public was dressed in neon lycra or box suits there was at the same time an emerging creative talent coming out of London fashion and art colleges designers such as Galliano, Kathern Hamnett and Betty Jackson are examples of this and their early garments are displayed in the exhibition.

New clubs such as the raucous Heaven and Taboo were a mixing pit of creative types who became their own art creation, people such as Leigh Bowery and Adam Ant expressed themselves in such original and innovative garments at club nights that they still inspire celebrities stage costumes today you only need to compare Lady Gaga with Bowery to see where she takes her inspiration from. With subcultures such as New Romantics and High Camp forming British fashion was so theatrical in this period and the DIY aesthetic has never been more prominent

I am visiting London next week for a few days to stay with friend so I am planning a visit so keep an eye out for a more in depth review and hopefully some sneaky pictures. What I’m excited about seeing is Leigh Bowery originals, Hamnet slogan tees and original photographs of Taboo and Heaven club nights.

The exhibition runs until 16^th Feb 2014.

 

Secret Emporium

T Rex rim sunglasses £35, Multi Print Backpack £58, Statement drop earrings £65, Tiger bum bag £28

 

 

A brilliantly unique creative website Secret Emporium is home to a host of new independent design talent - definitely one to look at. Above are all items on the website and my ultimate fave are the T Rex Rave rims perfect for summer holidays teamed with tiger bum bag - a force to be reckoned with I reckon.

Glasto fashion on the high street

My three favourite looks from Glastonbury festival are shown above - I like how each of Cara, Millie and Rita bring their own individual style to what they're wearing. Cara is all low maintenance/relaxed vibe, Millie brings an preppy yet rock n roll vibe and Rita is overtly glamorous with her fitted dress and oversized hat.

If you've got any festivals coming up or holidays, or even want to replicate their style below are some examples I've put together.

Cara - Hat: Urban Outfitters, Floral Bomber Jacket: Missguided, Skinny Jeans: Topshop, Leather Backpack: Urban Outfitters, Western Boots: Matalan.

Millie - Floral Headband: ASOS, High Neck crop top: Boohoo, Floral silk shorts: Rhianna for River Island, Cheslsea Boots: Office, Tie Dye Parka: Topshop

Rita - Bowler Hat: Boohoo, Dress: Zara, Bomber Jacket: Fred Perry

 

Mario Testini for MATE at Net-A-Porter

 

 

Mario Testini the designer, it's quite set apart from his usual job of photographing fashion but now he has lent his hand to designing an accessories range sold exclusively at Net-A-Porter. It is based on his iconic Alta Moda (High Fashion) photographs where he captured people in traditional dress from 5 different provinces in his home country of Peru. The collection consists of silk blend kaftans, tote bags, clutch bags and jewellery - they all are brightly emblazoned with snapbits of his original images. They would make for the perfect resort wear because of the bright vibrant colours they would sit well on a tanned body. My favourite items from the collection is the jewellery I love how they have a ethnic artisan craft style about them but are made from swarorski and gold plated elements, I especially adore the little pompoms hanging off the necklaces. Mario Testini has created this collection in association with MATE which is a not-for-profit organisation to promote crafts in Peru so it is not just an accessories collection but Testino's passion for being a Peruvian and his influence and inspiration is what makes the collection so special.

 

 

 

 

 

Comme des Garcon X Converse

With everyone and their mother currently wearing Converse pumps the latest collaboration between Comme des Garcon and Converse Pro is a stylish way to buy into the Converse trend without being another foot in the crowd. My favourites are the white low pumps with red hearts they're a clash between Vans x Converse x Avant garde fashion

You can buy online at Dover Street Market

Wimbledon Whites

Lunch - Top: & Other Stories, Skirt: Topshop, Watch: ASOS, Boots: Topshop

Club - Headband: Boohoo, Stacked ring set: ASOS, Dress: Boohoo, Clutch bag: French Connection, Shoes: River Island

Cocktail - Sunglasses: Urban Outfitters, Top: River Island, Skirt: Topshop, Sandals: & Other Stories

 

With the start of Wimbledon tomorrow here are 3 different Wimbledon inspired outfits. White is a very tricky colour to pull off but in the spirit of Wimbledon I thought I'd give it a go.

 

My favourite outfit is the one for cocktails I love the flatforms and Boucle A line skirt which would be very flattering but if you're not quite ready to bare all with this crop top try a peplum top instead. The box clutch bag for Club look is a French Connection piece that I'm going to start saving for now bit pricey at £85 but it reminds me of Black Beauty with the running horses and the size and shape of box is bang on trend at the moment. For the Lunch time outfit I wanted to go away from all white and I think this Topshop organza skirt goes really well, also it is a midi skirt - the length of the moment.

 

It's definitely time to start embracing white just watch out when you're eating if you're anything like me!

Whats all the flapper about?

I've finally managed to watch The Great Gatsby and oh my days have I now got my summer wish last dreamed up and sourced. The costumes designed by Prada and Catherine Martin has made me want to follow their lead in styling clothes that are 20s inspired but modernised so do not appear costumey, there is nothing worse than a head to toe over embellished costume look.

For me this translates as mixing colour and texture - a feathered pastel pink cape teamed with a sequined black slip would make a perfect cocktail combination. Stay clear from a sequined dress mixed with sequined hairband and glittery shoes it would all combine to look like an ice skater costume. Also an embellished drop waisted dress would look modern matched with a fitted blazer or even a boyfriend fit blazer, the combination of texture and volume would revamp the dress with a modern 20s edge.

Twenties costumes shown in Gatsby are all about using clothing as an outward indicator of wealth, power and status, and as a tool of seduction but nowadays we don't see clothing in that same way so when accessorising it's fine to use costume jewellery, feathers and diamantes. With this trend it seems with accessories be bold - Headbands are my personal fave but I think that instead of a crystal encrusted one I would be more inclined to go for the fastener approach with feathers attached at the side of head.

Style tips to look out for when shopping - dropped waist, pleats, beading, metallic print, sequins, embellishment, coloured fur, silk taffeta all have hints of 20s inspiration.


Needle & Thread at ASOS is a great place to start their mix of embellishment and colour combined forms a modern flapper look.

 

Comme des Garcon X Warhol

 

 

The latest collaboration by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcon is a joining of two opposing aesthetics - Andy Warhol known for his bold pop culture aesthetic is being repackaged by the minimalist monochrome aesthetic of Rei Kawakubo. It doesn't work on paper but in making it combines to form a modern, art, graffiti inspired collection.

 

It is a 15 piece unisex collection ranging from t-shirts, scarves, shoes and bags. Classic Warhol iconography such as his 1964 Flowers painting have been printed on t-shirts. My personal favourite is a remake of Warhols 1960s Cow wallpaper on a backpack.

 

The collection is a fun, vibrant collaboration between a pop artist master and avant garde designer - best summed up by Warhol himself 'Fashion wasn't what you wore someplace, it was the whole reason for going.'

If I was a rich girl ...

From top left - Laurence Decade studded boots - Christopher Kane silk skirt - Ostwald Helgason cheetah printed sweatshirt dress - Brian Lichtenberg Homies jumper - House of Holland crop top & tube skirt - Alexander McQueen bag - House of Holland floral tee dress - Damir Doma leather pleated shorts - Jill Sander dress- Jill Sander shirt - Lanvin contrasting leather trainers - Kenzo leopard print dress - Neil Barrett sweatshirt & skirt - Damir Doma trousers - Neil Barrett sculptured shirt.

Heels for the summer

Top row - £70 - £149

Bottom row - £69 - £70

Oh my gosh am I having shoe envy at the moment after stumbling across new shoe brand Mifani. Defintely a hit for the summer, they are all lovingly hand produced and at a top cost of around £150 they make for a fairly affordable shoe statement. I love the use of embellishment, they have a baroque esque vibe which is bang on trend for the 20s fashion look that is sure to hit the high street for the summer after Great Gatsby comes out. They have a range in stilettos, block midi heels, platforms and office court shoes so can be worn to most occasions - I love the idea of wearing a black court shoe which has heavily embellished heel to the office - instant feel good factor for the day I think.

Casual Couture

Paris Haute Couture fashion week was once viewed as a spectacular
showcase for the designer and not a profitable venture but instead was
destined to show the talents and creativity of designer this s/s 2013 made
 a move away from theatricality to a more wearable concept. There was a
 strong presence of Russian's on budding front row is this an indicator of
couture changing? Russians are now wearing and buying couture as an everyday
piece so the need for casualness and less extravagance is being reflected in
 the designs.

What do you think? Has the golden era of Couture drifted off to a more
commercial setting?

Armani Prive

Chanel

Dior

Elie Saab

British designer of year 2012

British Fashion Awards are being held tonight and the nominees for Designer of the year fall to Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Stella McArtney.

My winner is Mary Katrantzou ever since her debut collection in 2008 she has bought fashion to a 3dimensional structure with her use of silhouette and her use of digital print in creating a story in her garments. It is her mix of colour and print that combine in a theatratrical explosion of aesthetical charm.

She won emerging talent in Ready to wear 2011 so surely the next progression is winning Designer of the year, she has become a well recognisable name with her collaboration with Topshop and her style of print and hyper real colour is strikingly unique.

 

Surrealism impact on fashion

The Surrealism art movement began in Paris 1924 and was officially announced that had finished in 1969. In that period I aim to show not individual artists contribution to the movement but instead the resulting impact on fashion and style influences which can still be referenced in 2012 fashion.

The Surrealists aimed to banish taste values by recording inner visions by automatic drawing techniques which were a mode of pure expression free from political or society constraints. Their work was shrouded in mystification as the imagery had no recognisable predecessors where it could be compared to instead the Surrealists were opening up their minds exempt from any aesthetic concern. This can be compared to fashion in the sense that like Surrealists, fashion aims to not be immediately recognisable; it is unique each season to the designer it works by encouraging the spectator to become involved with the garment in individual process in creation of identity. Fashion like surrealist art actively encourages the dislocation of taste barriers and actively creates own aesthetic values.

Andre Breton, ‘Amid the bad taste of my time I strive to go further than anyone else in such a manner as to leave nothing to be desired from the viewpoint of comfort.’ This can be seen by Surrealists technique of conjuring the uncanny by using everyday objects but in a way which was not their original function to mystify and create paradox of how spectator views object in correlation with the text we use to describe object. Surrealist artist Meret Oppenheim explores this in her 1936 ‘Fur breakfast’ which is cup, saucer and spoon covered in gazelle fur it immediately removes the original aim of cup and saucer by fur so creates dislocation of object from meaning as well as offering paradox of desire and repulsion to the object. This is referenced in fashion by Hussein Chalayan 2000 collection ‘Afterwords’ where he rethought fashion as kind of portable architecture therefore removing the original aim of fashion as an aesthetic covering of body but instead giving new innovation in form as a means of transportable furniture.  Like Surrealist art innovative fashion designers aim to offer new meanings and form to existing conventions of how we perceive and view objects.

 

Meret Oppenheim



Hussein Chalayan


Salvador Dali the infamous Surrealist artist I feel has had the greatest impact on fashion designers it was his 1936 ‘Aphrodisiac Jacket’ which showed his engagement with consumer culture by acknowledging fashion as art he adorned a dinner jacket with liqueur glasses in a juxtaposition of the sensibility of jacket with destruction of character caused by the emptiness of the liqueur glasses in comical effect. He worked in unison with surrealist fashion designer Elsa Schiparelli in creation of iconic ‘Lobster dress’ in 1937 and ‘shoe hat’ in 1938 it was their combination of art and innovative fashion which secured fashion as status of art.

His influence can be seen in Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Autumn/Winter 2009 collection by referencing Dali 1936 ‘Giraffe on fire’ and his ‘Venus de Milo with drawers’ you can see the direct influence Dali work had on Prada designs in the use of drawer symbolism.

Giraffe on fire

Venus de Milo with drawers

Agatha Ruiz de la Prada



Diane Von Furstenberg paid homage to Dali in her Spring/Summer 2012 advertising campaign by her use of lunar landscape and displacement of models face with circular transparency. Her influence can be seen in Dali 1934 ‘The atavistic vestiges after the rain.’

The atavistic vestiges after the rain



Diana Von Furstenberg

Other designers which can cite influence by Surrealism are Viktor and Rolf in the way they deconstruct the silhouette in creation of new forms. Dolce and Gabbana in 2009/10 had collection named ‘Heart Elsa Schiparelli’ where gloves were designed as hats and belts in the rejection of original aim and recreating in bizarre way to offer new uses of gloves. Stephen Jones headwear can be related to surrealism by his use of juxtaposition of objects in creation of hats which have peculiar objects balanced in new aesthetic manner. More recently Mary Katrantzou in 2012 fall collection by her use of colour and printing techniques.

Ultimately fashion and surrealism are linked by the ‘idea that the spectator must complete the work of art and expose him/her self to the possibility of experiencing a new reality in the process.’

 

Fashion glistens towards the East

The East is growing at a rapid rate of consumption with China leading the way. China is developing from an export orientated economy into a consumption driven economy, mainly due to urbanisation and with that comes a new surge of young money. The new clientele consists of young fashionistas who have an interest in the heritage luxury brands of the West, they are cash rich and now due to relaxed legalisation of tax laws and increased travel they are visiting the West to experience the fashion and culture.

Eastern fashion is based heavily around religious beliefs, cultural obligations and tradition it stretches back generations in representing their culture. Western designers are using the culturally well known Eastern motifs and redefining in fresh, modern way in new designs to embrace the growing Eastern clientele. There has been an explosion in colour of fuchsias, oranges and yellows brightening up the catwalks into an Eastern sun set. Lighter, luxurious materials are being used such as silk and sheer linens, they work best in layering of fabrics creating a gliding effect in movement. 

Eastern fashion has had an influence over Western designs for many years Paul Poiret in 1910 was the first to bring Eastern fashion to a Western audience with turbans, Indian style trousers and his famous lampshade tunics.

Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2012 collection had a polished touch and expensive character behind the clothes, garments included fur collared fitted jackets, dazzling jewels and ornate embroidery of detailed dresses and trouser suits. The collection had Eastern influences which could be seen by the styling choices with the aura of the collection being one of refined, polished wealth.

Mary Katrantzou fall 2012 collection embraced the Eastern trend of colour, her beautifully crafted print dresses were in a range of bright, acidic colours. You can feel an Eastern influence by the vivid use of colouring and the hand printed design treatment of the dresses.

Givenchy Spring 2012 Couture collection saw the most recognisable characteristic of an Eastern influence by use of nose rings and drop earrings. Givenchy nose rings consisted of silver embellishment reaching to the wearer’s lips, coupled with gigantic embellished drop earrings. 

The Far East influence cannot just be seen by the style of the designers collections showcased but also in the budding front row presence at many shows, especially at Paris for the Chanel and Dior show where famous Chinese actress Lin Peng was an important guest.

Designers are not just influenced by the East they are setting up stores there as they recognise where their clientele is based and want to cater towards them. Maison Martin Margiela and Alexander McQueen opened stores in Beijing last year, whilst Gucci, Burberry and Hermes opening up shop since 2009. As well as more designers using eastern models in fashion advertisements to attract growing market.

Watch out for explosion of colours, glistening embellishment, sculptured layering and ethereal aesthetics as fashion turns East wards.

Ugly shoes the new craze

Next Spring 2013 if what we see on the catwalks is to come to fruition the shoe once seen as a sexy accessory has all gone Pete Tong. Flats are in but not the brogues we saw last season of polished leather giving masculine yet sophisticated feel but weird mixes of fur, plastic and futuristic sheen making next Spring seem set in never reaches of shoe envy.

Phoebe Philo for Celine has made comfy shoes the ones for the season, no longer tired feet from walking on pin point stilettos but shoes have furry lined bottoms in bright, garish Eskimo covered ballet pump style.

Prada’s two tongued plastic flats are the worst offenders for me. Firstly who likes wearing sandals that cut in between your toes and secondly they have plastic sheen to them which no doubt will make for a sweaty mix. Prada also shown wooden platform shoes with circular hole cut out of the platform that I like but it all goes bit strange with metallic ankle covering which looks like a sock wrapped around foot.

There's not much can be said about Marc Jacobs pilgrim style shoe, it looks like it been created by Amish on acid.

So for next Spring I don’t know if I’ll be following these crazy shoe trends I think it may be one left for the catwalk where fashion meets ugly.

 

Eco Fashion

Oscar Wilde, ‘Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.’

The fashion cycle rate of consumption is adversely impacting on the environment in each of its production stages from the cultivation of raw fabric to shipment of finished garment. Eco Fashion formally not widely known by mass market is now becoming more accessible by the work of environmentally conscious designers who use, produce and/or promote sustainable and ethical products.  Gone are the connotations of free love, hemp and earth colourings replaced by the respect for people plus planet plus profit in equal measurements.

The timeline of eco fashion.

Eco fashion can be traced back to the 1950s when the social elite wore couture and others who couldn’t afford to buy would follow the trend by making their own clothes. There was a great emphasis on investment purchases of high quality, long lasting goods they were eco friendly without being aware by their slow rate of consumption.

The natural looks that emerged in the 1960s can be linked to the hippies there was a trend for the re-working of vintage clothing into new garments which embraced creativity and individuality therefore rejecting the dehumanising effects of mass production and consumerism.

The 80s and 90s was a time when truly the effects of mass produced goods became common knowledge in the form of sweatshops catching worldwide attention, which encouraged the public to become more aware of what they’re buying into. Katherine Hamnett was one of the leaders in eco fashion became well known by her 1989 ‘Clean up or die’ Autumn Winter collection in which she used organic cotton on slogan t-shirts. Moschino in 1989 used his reputability as a form of expression by models wearing slogan t-shirts such as ‘stop using our waters as a W.C’ on the runway.

The work of Martin Margiela in the 1990s was that of upside down dysfunctional beauty by his re-working of existing garments by first deconstructing them then reconstructing into new forms, for example jacket made from multiple silk scarves. His ecological approach became known for its avant-garde qualities his garments were viewed as works of art which don’t follow passing fashion trend but instead encourage investment on high quality goods.

The twenty first century saw the introduction of green as the new black as legendary fashion journalist Suzy Menkes said in 2006. The same year ‘Esthetica’ by the British Fashion Council was established to showcase cutting edge designer’s committed to working eco sustainably.

Esthetica S/S 2012 London Fashion Week, Henrietta Ludgate one of the designers was one of my favourites by her use of structured colourful designs. As well as Victim Fashion Street her use of reclaimed materials in reconstruction of garments is skilfully done by mix of print.

In proof that the notion of eco fashion had become well received by mass market came in 2007 when designer Anya Hindmarch released the bag with slogan ‘I’m not a plastic bag’ on and was snapped on arms of many a celebrity and in doing so became the bag of the moment with stocks selling out. Eco fashion is now seen as eco cool.

Now to the science that is needed to inform the continual progress of environmentally conscious garments is still in development some possible new techniques consist of biodegradable clothing which is growing clothes out of biomaterial the bacteri al-cellulose is spun and made into material fibre, literally means the possibility of growing a dress out of science beaker so no resources would be depleted.

Designers Andrew Sneider and Diffus designs have managed to incorporate energy production into garment process by creating a solar bikini and solar panelled hand bag retrospectively. They produce enough energy to charge mobile phone and can act as energy capacitors; we will be our very own walking energy producer.

Another concept to reduce energy usage is being researched into the production of a fabric that has a coating made from compound of titanium dioxide which acts as very own washing machine so reducing energy usage as well as water usage. This compound would have capability of breaking down dirt molecules while killing microbes by being activated by UV rays.

To reduce the amount of fabric waste a concept has been developed which utilises a loom attached to computer that weaves made to fit garment sections which can then be sewn together by hand, therefore no fabric waste so saving on raw material.

Ultimately all these innovations in fabric development are concepts at the moment and to promote eco fashion is down to the consumer as consumers drive fashion by their demands. The appeal of slow fashion which is less driven by current trends but dictated by style and high quality garments is the promotion of an ecologically friendly fashion movement.

Tattoos and the self fashioning of identity

Tattooing is a form of self expression in construction of a cultural embodied identity. Tattooing has always been a symbol of identity in that the tattoos of the wearer represent their cultural standing be it the stereotypical notions of prisoners tattoos as they are stripped of any form of identity by the wearing of uniform prison jump suit, so their tattoos show their cultural position and act as expression of identity that not allowed to express in form of clothing.

But what when tattoos surplus the mode of expression that clothing entails and takes its own expression of identity that no longer does a person who have a tattoo is immediately classified as member of deviant social group. Tattooing is now seen as art form and the actual tattooist as contemporary artist with the body as medium instead of traditional canvas. Tattoos now are no longer individual symbols of self identity but can work as a coherent piece of art work; it is a combination of owners identity mixed with tattooist’s vision that creates individual art work that becomes a talking point and representative of the owner.

The twenty first century is an image obsessed, over saturated society in which images are over consumed via media outlets. Brands have signifying identity traits which we as the public signify with certain brands and the related aspects of status and identity. Artist Dietrich Wegner highlights this with his use of babies covered in fake tattoos of corporate brand logos, it aims to show the world in which they will be brought up in. Therefore the want of people to distinguish themselves by forms of tattoos is growing in the removal of brand symbolism and the related taste values associated so tattoos act as own form of identity in the dejection of brand symbolism.

Ironically tattoos are now being accepted and encouraged by fashion industry once when models were not allowed to be in high end fashion shows with tattoos as it breaks the barrier of model as hanger for the clothing foremost. Now many models are booked for their individuality. Chanel and Betsey Jackson have both released collections of temporary tattoo motifs the role of the tattoo as symbol for deviant social class is reversed by high end fashion designers promoting tattoos as latest form of fashion and accepting them, will this mean that the original aim of tattoo as form of individualism identity will be taken over by the very commercial giants that it is trying to resist?