SS 13 -: ‘Set on
Tropical Island, where there is an Embassy tea party on the lawn, the tropical
setting as its backdrop.’
The show started with a red back light illuminating the cat
walk like a rising sun the feeling of a tropical setting was immediate then out
came a fusion of bright colours, floral print motifs, tropical fish print and
patchwork dresses matched with long trailing neck scarves.
My favourite look was more tailored, high waisted black
flare trousers juxtaposed against tucked under hot pant style shorts, her use
of extremes of height made the collection accessible to a wider demographic. I
also loved how she mix matched a draping side cut black flowing evening skirt
with t-shirts knotted on the side; it gave a relaxed but formal look.
The overall style of the collection I feel has a relaxed,
fun and modern approach for the seasoned traveller. The use of colour, motifs
and accessories such as fish net bag bring a humour to her designs.
SS 13 -: ‘Has strong botanical influence, will feature my
trademark sculptural shapes.’
The first hint to her botanical influence came with the
music soft sounds of the rainforest could be heard, birds tweeting and water
cascading down. The catwalk was illuminated by white light as the first model
entered her shadow lit up casting white light onto the catwalk creating a glow
behind and in front as she walked.
Sleeves were dramatic they came in sculptured shapes of full
sleeve, puff ball cap sleeves, ¾ tailored sleeves and restrictive against the
models bodies creating a distorted shape of the arm. The sculptured element of
the garments was also seen in full body bubble skirts, oversized bow detailing
around collar, layering tulip effect of dress over long train and use of tulle
creating three dimensional shapes around the body. The body became distorted with
concave shapes at back of dresses as well as dramatic shoulder lines.
The sculptured dramatic element of her designs was
juxtaposed against the use of soft, ethereal colouring of creams, gold, white
and sheer fabrics. The botanical influence was not the usual stereotypical fauna
motifs but the feel and mood exhibited was one of contented relaxation with the
environment.
SS13 –: ‘Inspiration came from Queen Victoria’s grand
daughter, Marie who became the Queen of Romania in 1922 and the love she had
for her botanical garden in Balchik.’
The models had a regal inspiration with tall head dress
similar to crown structure the other inspiration that could be seen as a
constant in models is the use of patterned tights the markings looked like vine
leaves running up their legs, taking the botanical influence.
Collars was the main trend I saw in the collection there was
embellished collars, lace, high collars, over sized asymmetrical collars and
stand alone collars as statement jewellery pieces. Layering was another key
trend and contrast of fabrics, sheer and lace. The sheer layering draped down
and gave the garments a mystical quality of breezing along especially in the A
line dresses which were layered over silk shift, the dress became alive and
breezed offset against the body.
The colours used were mainly purple and blues but with the
layering and use of different fabrics the colour palette varied as model walked
against the light. Overall the collection had regal manner but one of haunted
consequence it was as the models were portraying lost monarchs who could only
retreat into their botanical dreams.
His collection had futuristic musical influence I thought. The
beat of the track that played as models walked was echoed in the computerised
graphic design print on his garments, the tie dye effect on the collection was
sharp and had angular points it was as a beat on rock/trance soundtrack.
His collection had an angular approach the angles was asymmetric
on the dresses reaching a triangular point at hem. Dresses were also cut into
with use of different colouring they appeared to have contrasting sides, the
fabric flapped and flayed over one another giving the dress three dimensional
movement.
It had masculine feel there were low waist harem style
trousers but they had impression of work man pants with heavy belt. The use of
tailoring mixed with cut out details softened the masculine edge. I liked how
his graphic print jump suits had none of the playfulness of the seventies but I
feel he had re-invented in cool, hard edged manner by use of bold graphic print
and sharp tailoring.
SS13-: ‘Harmony with disharmony creates illusions: expect
the unexpected we are intrigued with contrasts.’
It kicked off with hard metallic guitar solo then the light
went up to reveal girl on side of catwalk on top of box singing grunge/metal
songs. That set off the feel off the collection, one for the young and cool. Coloured leopard print dresses, skirt and crop
top combos revealed slashes of skin be it by cut away dress revealing leg or top
the mid riff. Tops were slashed at neck or high neck but all were cropped. The backs
of dresses were low and V shaped, the contrast came with the front which was
high neck.
My favourite look was sheer layered trousers over cropped
shorts which went into high necked jump suit with the back revealed. The
combination of different fabrics, length and skin exposure made the garment
feel modern and not overly sexy but understated cool and fresh approach to the
conventional jumpsuit, it was as three separate pieces in one.
