Here's a roundup of my favourite designers from the past
seven days of London Fashion Week for A/W 2013 – It may seem eager looking at
trends for A/W what without us having Summer yet but who knows the way the weather
is here we may be wearing these trends sooner than we expect.
Friday 15th February.
PPQ –
Statement coats were a feature think a move away from
Burberry Macs of S/S and instead they have a more sophisticated feel with wide
brimmed collars similar to man’s blazer and come in a range of pop colours
which are either in block colour, and with a touch of extravagance such as fur
and feather colours. Colours to become sweet on are zesty yellow, lime, Barbie
pink and soft blue. Not forgetting the unflappable monochrome of black and
white. The collection has a sophisticated feel but with glimmers of humour, the
chocker dress with peplum ruffles are one of my favourite and the maxi dress
with pop art style badges sewn on the side is also a winner.
Central St Martins MA –
The new future of designers emerge from institutions such as
Central St Martins, if this rings true for what was shown this A/W 2103 things
to expect are gender blurring. The use of textures, layering and pleating shown
moved the fabric away from the body allowing it to become its own structure so
not dependent on body underneath. This was further reflected in men shown in
oversized jumper dress and fish net tights. The future reflected by the current
MA students is one of body displacement.
Saturday 16th February.
House of Holland –
Henry Holland signature looks are based on current hipster
London girls this collection is no different low hipster baggy jeans, layering
of bold print jumper with cigarette trousers or plumped out skirts. As well as
a nod to the early 2000s Oasis inspired Parka they come in traditional khaki
with fur trimmed hoods and in a navy. My favourite looks from his collection
are the psychedelic print dresses they’re not in garish bold colourings but
instead subdued that look good with large belt round the middle for glam look,
his patent fitted skirts that sit just above the knee also have a glamorous
young feel for the new modern worker.
David Koma –
For A/W he said he was inspired by rhythm, sound and
movement, I can see this in the collection by his use of pleating and peplum at
the hem of dresses and skirts that move in waves as models walk. Peplum is a
trend that is set to stay this upcoming A/W. His use of leather in mix of red
and black give the designs a tough exterior but by use of embellishment such as
waves in sheer on the arms and sheer panelling it balances the dresses so still
looks wearable and approachable.
Sunday 17th February.
Mulberry –
The collection felt ‘country glamourfied’ by its use of
print such as dog tooth and plaid in its coats, capes and tailored tops. It
moved away from country glamour by its transgression to crisp white tailored
coat, top, trouser combo, very city chic. Layering was key to this collection
with most being layered over mid calf length tailored trousers, its sure to be
the new length this A/W. Nightmare for most of the public though highlighting
the widest part of calf, Ouch.
Unique –
Extremes of length and structure seems to be the key to this
collection. Oversized coats, miniskirts, cropped tops, voluming bell sleeves
all make for a contrast of shape. An oversized orange coat adds a striking
finish to an outfit. Fabric texture varies by use of heavily clustered sequins
giving garments a glimmering snake like feel, mixed with fur. The show stopper
outfit modelled by Cara Delavigne model of the year 2012 is a sequined crop top
with matching mid calf skirt with large slit up the back, defiantly a key trend
for next A/W sequins but heavily clustered all over.
Monday 18th February.
Christopher Kane –
Sophisticated camouflage emerged in forms of flowers that
blend into one another over sheer skirts and matching shirts, was also seen in
use of colours of brown, mauve and greens that merge into another seamlessly
reflecting the light as model walked. It is a retake of the army camouflage
trend that we have been seeing lately but re-tailored in a classier way – think
urban camo.
Louise Gray –
‘Hey Crazy’ the sign read at the back of Louise Gray catwalk
presentation and ‘crazy’ was echoed throughout the collection with brooches and
rings in shape of loo roll and dangling furry balls for earrings, definitely crazy
accessories. Paint splashes of colour layered over one another mixed in a bric
a brac collage style of fabrics make for a bizarre layering of bra over shirts,
over peg leg trousers. The trends seen are mixing of bold print and colour-
Louise Gray is all about texture and colour this A/W.
J.W. Anderson –
Rhianna esque thigh length splits were prominent throughout
the collection. The sexiness of thigh length split skirts and dresses was juxtaposed
against roll neck jumpers and half ponchos that cover the shoulders and neck.
The recent trend for novelty jumpers is to be replaced this A/W by comic strip
print – as seen in dresses and skirts by J.W Anderson.
Tuesday 19th February.
Meadham Kirchhoff –
To be perfectly reasonable there were not many trends that I
could see becoming popular this A/W from Meadham Kirchhoff, the collection had
a fantasy costume feel about it. There were models in French maid outfits,
others in sailor stripes and a mix of tiaras and veils – making for a look that
I can’t see on the high street. The only aspects that could be wearable were
tailored black and white panelled coats and tailored blazers teamed with pencil
skirts.
